Capri is a different island once the last ferries leave. The Piazzetta softens, the day boats disappear, and you finally hear the sea again. We stayed at J.K. Place Capri, where the service is so intuitive you barely notice it happening, and breakfast looks straight over Marina Grande. Our days were spent circling the island by private boat, swimming below the Punta Carena lighthouse where the locals go, and walking down from Monte Solaro all the way to the sea. Evenings meant a tower table at Pulalli above the Piazzetta, and one unforgettable dinner at L'Olivo in Anacapri. Stay longer than you think you need. Capri rewards the ones who do.